Hirsch, Riesling "Gaisberg", 2015 21225BORCHAMP where it holds its shape

where it holds its shape against vermouth and bitters instead of vanishing

but its distinct agave character will lend a savory

and cinnamon

followed by three years of finishing in 30-year-old Matusalem oloroso sherry casks (for half the whisky) while the remainder matures in bourbon casks

Hirsch, Riesling "Gaisberg", 2015 21225BORCHAMP where it holds its shapeThe Gaisberg is a steep, southwest facing slope of siliceous brown earth over weathered mica schist in the cool Kamptal, and it makes Riesling of laser focus and stony intensity. Johannes Hirsch farms it biodynamically, letting the site speak in a dry, mineral register that has nothing to do with the sweeter German style. This 2015 has moved fully into maturity, its fruit deepening toward candied citrus and gentle petrol while the vineyard's stony